A Brief History of Needlework
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A Brief History of Needlework

   

Needlework, or embroidery, has been around almost as long as clothing itself. Samples of embroidery have been found in Egyptian tombs, on ancient Maori costumes from New Zealand, and on medieval church vestments. Embroidery includes anything you can do with a needle and yarn or thread on almost any type of material.


Western culture tends to link needlework to women, but originally it was a task performed by men who spent years mastering the craft.


Some embroidery work is considered functional, while other work is purely decorative. There have been changes in design and technique, which reflect the styles and attitudes of the era. Some forms of embroidery have faded away, and then reappeared. Almost all types of embroidery have left their mark in some way. It is an art form that has been handed down from generation to generation.


The invention of the first embroidery machine in 1828 made possible the mass production of embroideries. But embroidery continues to be practiced as a handcraft, just as it was in ancient times. Its historical uses have also prevailed, as evidenced by the wall hangings, decorated clothing, and domestic linens and furnishings that are created today.


Crewel

Crewel, also known as wool embroidery, has been around for centuries. The word crewel is derived from an old Welsh term meaning “wool.”  The word referred to the wool yarn used for stitching and not the style of embroidery. Traditionally, heavy wools were used for this type of embroidery, but today there is a wide variety of yarns and even threads to choose from, depending on the desired effect.


Although crewel is considered the most difficult stitchery technique to master, it is ideal for pillows, curtains, clothing, and wall hangings. The use of tightly-woven fabrics enables stitchers to create an infinite variety of shapes. There are a great number of stitches that can be employed in crewel embroidery; these stitches add texture and depth to the finished piece. The outlines of the design are often screen printed on the fabric, and the stitcher fills in, or outlines, each area with stitches.


Needlepoint

Needlepoint was born to recreate the look of woven tapestries. Sometime during the 16th and 17th centuries, embroidery on canvas, or needlepoint as we know it today, began to develop. Needlepoint was popular during colonial times, where it was used for pictures, upholstery fabric, and fashion accessories.


Needlepoint is the technique of forming stitches on an open-weave fabric called canvas. The canvas is constructed with vertical and horizontal threads that are woven together to make precisely placed holes between threads. The points at which these threads meet are called meshes. Needlepoint designs are more durable than other types of needlecrafts, making them well suited for chair seats, pillows, and rugs.


Most needlepoint designs are printed or hand painted on the canvas. Each color on the canvas represents a yarn or thread color. The stitcher covers each area on the canvas with the corresponding yarn or thread color, using a blunt tapestry needle. Some designs, especially those with a repeating pattern, are stitched on a blank canvas by counting from a pattern or chart.


The most common stitch is called a “continental stitch” or “tent stitch,” and is worked diagonally across the canvas threads. Other stitches are used to create dimension or to add outlines and highlights.


The American Needlepoint Guild (ANG), which started in May 1970, is an educational, non-profit organization whose main purpose is to stimulate interest in all aspects of needlepoint. The guild encourages the practice and appreciation of needlepoint as an art form. Thanks to their efforts and the popularity of yarns over the past few years, there has been a resurgence in needlepoint.


Counted Cross Stitch

Counted cross stitch is a type of embroidery that is adaptable to either simple or intricate designs. It is a rather old form of embroidery, although it really flourished in folk art designs where geometric and floral patterns were used to embellish household items. Today it is one of the most popular forms of embroidery, mainly because it is versatile and easy to learn.


Counted cross stitch is worked on unprinted even-weave fabrics, with Aida and linen being the most widely used. Generally using cotton embroidery floss, the stitcher forms X’s by taking the needle and floss through the holes woven into the fabric. A blunt tapestry needle is used so the fabric threads are not pierced. The design is represented on a chart with symbols; each symbol corresponds to a floss color. The stitcher counts from the chart to the fabric to place each stitch. Outlines and highlights can be added to the design using other stitches, such as back stitch and French knots.


Counted cross stitch enjoyed immense popularity in the 70's and 80's. Although its popularity then waned a bit, it is making a comeback these days. The percentage of young crafters (ages 18-25) who have picked up cross stitch has increased dramatically in recent years

Stamped Cross Stitch
Stamped cross stitch is similar to counted cross stitch in that X’s are formed on the fabric to create a design. However, in stamped cross stitch, the X’s are printed on a tightly woven fabric and the stitcher forms the stitches by working over the printed X’s. Stamped goods have been popular for tablecloths, linens, quilts, and pictures for years.

Some people find that stamped cross stitch is a great way to learn cross stitch. Because of the printed X’s on the fabric, it is not necessary to count the holes in the fabric. The designs also tend to be a bit simpler than those for counted cross stitch and the printed X’s on the fabric are easier to see.

In stamped cross stitch, the design is charted with symbols that represent the floss color to use. Many stamped cross stitch designs are enhanced with other stitches, including satin stitch, stem stitch, back stitch, and French knots.


Current consumer participation surveys report that crafters both young and old are heavy participants in needlecrafts—almost half of whom have purchased needlecraft supplies during the last twelve months. An interesting statistic shows a dramatic rise in needle crafters are in the 18-25 age range. It’s no wonder! So many current fashion trends use exciting needlework ideas.


Find out how easy and rewarding it is to learn needlework, and make your garments and home decorating projects unique and personal.